BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Sunday 25 March 2012

Scorcio

The last few weeks my foot was forced off the pedal by work in London. Of course i could have gone to a wall down there but i didn't know the way and i didn't want to spend my days hard earned wages! Two weeks shouldn't actually have too much affect strength wise and indeed i was ok in the Cave first day back. I've got 3 problems in there i really want to do and Broken Trigger is first up i think. It's a bit shorter than The Wire and Pilgrim and a good first choice as i'm not very fit. I'd gotten to the move to the crimp on Trigger Cut from the start a few times but it felt like a tricky move on the link. A few people have done TC recently with Nodder's kneebar for this move. I thought i couldn't do it originally but it is actually bomber and a big help on the link (don't ask what grade TC is now!!). Just need a good day on it now! Pete R was trying Pilgrimage, it's an obvious project for him in there as he's done most things. He's got an alternative sequence for the classic undercut move (which seems to be redundant these days!) and just needs to build up fitness on it. We then headed round to Pill Box as Pete wanted to try Katzy's unrepeated 8b route Corinthian Groove. It was his 5th day on it, he tried it 4 times last autumn, he reckons it could be the hardest 8b on the lime. Well they normally don't take him that long. I did Foolish Ghoulish, the 7b that Corinthian finishes up and got royally pumped. It's going to be a long road to get some stam! The route is brilliant, one of the best of its grade i've done on the Orme. Pete had no joy on the 8b and that was that. The next day i headed into the pass with Mr P, Floppy Chris and Gav for something a bit different. It was really hot, crazily so for March. We warmed up on the Pac Man boulders and then headed into the woods to try this. It is indeed a very nice problem but it felt too hot for the slopes. Chris and Gav tried a project to the right:


Pete having a quick go on Clutch 7c+:

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