BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday 7 July 2009

A day of Nearly's

Today was the first decent day of conditions i have experienced for about a month. It was cool on the orme and there was a nice breeze. My plan was to warm up in the cave then move onto the box but in the end i thought i'd take advantage of the conditions so tried Halfway House, Nodder showed up and once again suggested that i try his kneebar for the move into the undercut. I did and it worked! Bonus. I went from the start and found myself at the shothole, but cocked it up. Then i did the same thing again, balls! Oh well progress, i think the grade of this problem is soft 8a with the kneebars. Then i had a go of my other cave project, Broken Heart/Sams Finish. Felt quite pumped but managed to fall off the last move again. On the box i fell off the last hard move of my project again. After a quick trip home to refuel i headed back to the orme to meet up with the LPT crowd. Pete is looking good on LA, he can basically do it in 2 halfs now. Jim did Statement. I checked out the Carson direct finish to Bad Boy again, Pas de Deux. I have never managed to get a decent sequence on this before but today i kind of worked it out. The two bolts after leaving BB are hard Font 7b+ or 7c, quite fingery. I managed all the moves apart from the very last one to good holds. Quite keen for this now. i think its probably 8b and not 8a+. Certainly comparable to other 8bs i've tried. Something else to do down there!

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